The First Residents of Rancho Viejo

Marsha and I never met the person from whom we bought our home in the Village at Rancho Viejo in Santa Fe, New Mexico.  We knew her name of course – and a little bit about her from the way she furnished and decorated her house.  We also are learning the names of other previous occupants from the catalogs and solicitations that still arrive for them in our mailbox.  It is just human nature to want to know something about those that came before you.  To discover who the very first residents of our property were however required some serious research.

But first a brief note on date terminology.  In researching this paper I came across several conventions for expressing dates.  There is of course the BC (Before Christ) & AD (Anno Domini) nomenclature that many of us grew up with – which was replaced in scientific and academic circles in the 1990s by BCE (Before Common Era) & CE (Common Era) because they “do not presuppose faith in Christ and hence are more appropriate for interfaith dialog.”
             
In addition, in the Archaeological writings that I was reading there was YBP (“Years Before Present Time”) – instead of X number of years ago.  And my own personal favorite “uncal RCYBP” (“uncalibrated Radiocarbon Years Before Present”.)  In this paper I used the BCE & CE convention because most of the quotes that I used already contain those abbreviations. 

“I sure hope we run into some bison”
           
When Pedro de Peralta came to Santa Fe in 1610, he and his fellow colonists were probably aware that they were not the first people to live here.  The area in fact already had a name –  “Ogapoge” (“down at the Olivella shell-bead water”) – given to it by the local Tewa-speaking Indians who had arrived on the scene in the late 1300s or early 1400s CE.  And they themselves were preceded centuries earlier by a groups of people referred to archaeologically as the “Paleoindians” and the “Archaics.”
              
12,000 years ago the landscape and climate of Santa Fe were quite different than today.  According to Jason Shapiro in his book “Before Santa Fe”, “The area around Santa Fe would have been heavily forested with varieties of spruce, pines and conifers, interspersed with grasslands, with a climate much like that in British Columbia or other parts of the northwest today except that these Late Pleistocene environments were more complex with a mixture of both existing and extinct species.”  The trend toward warmer and drier began around 9,500 BCE and became what is basically today’s landscape and climate around 5,000 BCE
             
Around 12,000 years ago the people referred to as Paleoindians or Paleoamericans entered, and subsequently inhabited, the Americas – and New Mexico.   These hunter-gatherer people were spread over a wide geographical area, resulting in wide regional variations in lifestyles. However, all the individual groups shared a common style of stone tool production – the so-called lithic reduction method.    
             
Paleoindians, including those in the Santa Fe area, would have hunted such game as mammoths and mastodons; bison that were as much at 1,500 pounds heavier (almost twice the size) than today’s species; caribou, elk and prong-horned antelope; ground sloths, one-humped camels and glyptodonts (an extinct subfamily of large, heavily armored armadillos); as well as grizzly bears and mountain lions.
             
The number of Paleoindian sites that have been discovered is quite small, probably because of the destruction caused by natural processes like flooding, freezing, erosion and (what Shapiro calls) “the underappreciated actions of plants and animals.”  Plus    “if we make the reasonable assumption that contemporary and historically identified hunting and gathering societies are acceptable models for Paleoindians, we are talking about small mobile bands of somewhere between fifteen and forty people…[in short] there were not very many Paleoindians, they left relatively small amounts of stuff in the archeological records, and much of the material that they created and used has not been preserved.”
             (Paleoindians hunting a glyptodont)

Still fifty-nine sites have been identified in the Albuquerque Basin, fifty miles south of New Mexico’s capital city.  And several miles west of the Santa Fe the Caja del Rio site contained evidence of projectiles and tools made in the Clovis (11,500 – 13,000 years ago) and subsequent Folsom, Plano, Midland, Angostura and Cody/Scottsbluff time periods – indicating this site’s desirability as a camping place for a period of time in excess of 4,000 years
             
In a November 20, 2015 Albuquerque Journal article Santa Fe Assessor Gus Martinez is reported as saying that, “of the 30,451 residential homes within the city limits of Santa Fe, 4,932 have out-of-state addresses on their property tax bill. That works out to be about 16.2 percent, or close to 1 in 6.  Outside the city limits [where Marsha and I live], 2,485 of the 22,283 homes in Santa Fe County, about 11.2 percent, are owned by out-of-staters.”
             
Same as it ever was, according to the above-cited Jason Shapiro.  “This contemporary phenomenon is not the first instance of transient, seasonal, and part-time residency in Santa Fe, but the belongings of the early seasonal residents were fairly minimal – yucca fiber sandals, spear throwers and stone-tipped darts, a few stone or bone tools, some baskets, cordage-woven nets, and maybe a rabbit fur blanket or two.  Several thousand years ago, these few things were enough to make it in Santa Fe.” 
           
"I know exactly where the antelope herd hangs out."

The next wave of short-term residents are referred to by Archaeologists as “Archaic” hunters, gatherers, and foragers – and they lived in the Santa Fe area about 1,500 to 1,600 years ago – the Paleoindians having left the scene some 6,000 years earlier.  The Archaics’ food menu was no longer large herd animals, which were now less available due to climatic changes, but instead smaller animals such as antelope and deer  – and a wider assortment of wild plants.  
             
Again Jason Shapiro: “all Archaic foragers relied to a greater or lesser degree upon mobility.  The earliest hunter-gatherers seem to have been more dependent upon ‘encounter based’ strategies…(‘Gee, I sure hope that we run into some bison.’)  As people became more familiar with smaller territories they modified this approach…Later Archaic groups were very familiar with all aspects of their locales and knew what plants and animals would most likely be available at specific locations during particular times of the year (‘I know exactly where the antelope herd hangs out.’)” 
             
The Archaic sites around Santa Fe range in age from 7,000 to 1,500 years ago with one of the most significant being La Bajada near Tetilla Peak about fifteen miles southwest of downtown Santa Fe.   Camps have been discovered to the northwest of the city in Las Campanas and south in the Tierra Contenta subdivision.  Others have been found near the Cochiti Reservoir. 
         
          “People living near Santa Fe could have shifted their temporary residential camps from the riparian areas near the Rio Grande and lower Santa Fe Rivers, where fish, turtles, and water-loving plants such as cattails and arrow-weed would have been available in the spring, through the grassland savannah on the broad plains west of the city, where Indian grass, amaranth, dropseed, goosefoot, and other small seed plants provided early summer greens and, later in the summer, ripe seeds.  In the fall, people would have moved into the pinon-juniper woodlands located to the north and east of the city for the collection of pinon nuts, cactus fruits, and juniper berries, and finally into the higher Ponderosa pine and mixed conifer forests of the Sangre de Cristo mountains for fall deer and elk hunting.  Finally they would return to the lower valley of the Santa Fe River near the Rio Grande.”
             
The next cultural periods and sets of locals reflect the change in lifestyle to what is sometimes called the “triumvirate of Puebloan traits” – agriculture, sedentariness (the practice of living in one place for a long time), and village-scale organization.  During this period 400/600 CE to 1325 CE Pueblo life in Santa Fe developed such that  (according to Shapiro): 
            
          “If you climbed Atalaya peak [in southeast Santa Fe] eight hundred years ago and had a decent pair of binoculars, you could probably pick out, or at least see the smoke from, most of the Coalition Period pueblos that occupied various parts of the city.  Right in the center of downtown was El Pueblo de Santa Fe, as well as a pueblo on Fort Marcy Hill.  On the south side of town one could see Mocho and Upper Arroyo Canyon and possibly Los Alamos Pueblo located several miles southeast of Santa Fe along state route 285.  Continuing on the west side of town where Agua Fria Street and the Alameda bracket the Santa Fe River, you could find several settlements beginning with the largest pueblos, Agua Fria Schoolhouse and Pindi, and continuing with several others positioned like beads on a string for three miles along the river.  These were not the almost tentative pueblos that appeared during the Developmental period but were the successful results of a couple hundred years of maize-fueled village growth…Pindi had no less than 175 rooms…and Agua Fria Schoolhouse…upwards of 500.”
             
El Pueblo de Santa Fe (possibly settled as early as 400 CE) was located at the site of the new Convention Center.  And the Fort Marcy settlement included the large village of Kwapoge whose eight-foot trash heap indicates principal occupancy took place 1050 – 1150 CE. The refuse heap also included samples of Red Mesa black-on-white pottery from the Cibola Region near Gallup, NM suggesting a long-distance trade connection.
             
One identifying marker that distinguishes this new Coalition Period pottery from Developmental is the use of organic, carbon-based paint (instead of mineral-based) on what is now called Santa Fe black-on-white pottery.
             
By archaeological convention 1325 CE marks the beginning of the Classic Period “when virtually all of the inhabitants of the northern Rio Grande region gave up small and medium-sized villages in favor of big settlements.”
             
South of Santa Fe the Arroyo Hondo Pueblo, for example, “started out as a 100-room hamlet in about 1300. Within the next 30 years, it exploded into a 1,000-room pueblo,” according to Douglas Schwartz of School for Advanced Research as, reported in the Santa Fe New Mexican January 29, 2016.  Schwartz was the Principal Investigator on the 1971 excavation of the site and developer of the arroyohondo.org website.
             
Click here for Arroyo Hondo Pueblo animation. http://dennisrhollowayarchitect.com/ArroyoHondo.html

 So, throughout the prehistory of Santa Fe  – from the Paleoindians, to the Archaics, to the Puebloans – Native Americans have hunted, foraged, and lived in the city and some of its surrounding areas.  But other than inference of likelihood – is there any real evidence that these early indigenous people actually set sandal-clad foot on the 23,000 acre Rancho Viejo property?

“A lovely little pueblo.”
           
In my research as to whether Prehistory Indians were actually present in Rancho Viejo, I found references to two reports mentioning Rancho Viejo by name and archived at the New Mexico Office of Archaeological Studies: "An Archaeological Inventory of 302.5 Acres, Rancho Viejo Phase I” and "Request approval to vacate a platted [planned] archaeological easement on 118.670 acres within Rancho Viejo.”
             
Ian Norrish cited the second study in his column in the August 2014 “Rancho Viejo Roundup” newsletter.   At that time he was able to access the paper online and he reported on it in his article.
             
“At the request of Rancho Viejo de Santa Fe Inc., the prior developers of Rancho Viejo 1 and 2 the archaeologist of the Museum conducted an archaeological inventory of an area of Rancho Viejo.”
             
They found that the area was not “archaeology significant” and allowed the developer to proceed with construction.  However the report did go on to say, “The site(s) represent a important aspect of human occupation of the Southern Santa Fe and Eastern Galisteo River basins…[and]… reflect occupations during the late Archaic to Basketmaker II periods (800 BC. to A.D. 400), the Coalition and early Classic periods (A.D. 1200 to 1425), and the late Territorial to Statehood periods (A.D. 1880 to 1941.”
            
Ian Norrish concludes that he no longer considers himself to be just “an ‘old guy’ from back east settling into retirement in Santa Fe, but a modern time-traveller hiking and biking these ancient lands.”
             
The paper is no longer online, so I requested both reports from the Office of Archaeological Studies.  However current New Mexico State Statute, enacted some years after Ian Norrish’s online research, prevents the OAS from sharing such data with the general public in order to keep the location of unprotected sites private – and thus not provide a map to treasure-seekers who might plunder them.  Also these papers seem to concern themselves with the 6,000 acres of Rancho Viejo now occupied by its HOA communities, and therefore might not have answered questions about the entire 23,000 acre Rancho Viejo property, which is my area of interest for this chapter.
             
Then – while in the back-and-forth process of setting up a meeting to discuss my query with Dr. Eric Blinman, OAS Director – I came across a November 1995 "Interview with Four Archaeologists", published in "Windmills and Dreams: A History ofEldorado and Neighboring Areas."  The Census Designated place of Eldorado at Santa Fe abuts Rancho Viejo land at Eldorado’s north and west borders – so perhaps historically and archaeologically they have some things in common.  And Dr. Blinman was one of the quartet of scientists who were asked if pueblos existed in the Eldorado area.
             
Stew Peckham, also part of the panel, replied first, “…there was the one called Pueblo West which was a little more west of [excavation site] LA 8 which was really off the old road of Eldorado, the original first entrance.”
             
And Eric Blinman continued,  "It is very well hidden, that is one reason why it has not been damaged very much by vandalism, it is in excellent shape.   It is a lovely little pueblo and will be part of Rancho Viejo subdivision when they develop that.  There is no choice to preserving it.  It is such a nice pueblo, they want to preserve it. Right now they have the local residents being site stewards of it…keeping track of who comes and goes.  The earliest possibilities of anyone being out there would probably be as early as 12,000 years ago with hunters chasing after mega-fauna in the area….Eldorado would be a transitory gathering ground."
             
Dr. Blinman and I met on a Sunday morning at his office in the Center for New Mexican Archaeology on Caja del Rio Road in Santa Fe.
             
The short answer to the hunter/gatherer/resident question is that, what is now Rancho Viejo was one part of the “mosaic of resources” in the Santa Fe area utilized by the Prehistory Indians for food and housing.  And Pueblo Wells, better known (and searchable) as Chamisa Locita, was in fact the first housing community in Rancho Viejo predating Marsha’s and my home in “The Village” by over 600 years. 
             
He directed me to the “Galisteo Basin Archaeological Sites Protection Act" website, where it said, “Chamisa Locita (LA 4) is a Coalition-period [1200 – 1325/50 CE] residential complex first recorded by Nels Nelson in 1914. The site consists of a long, primary east-west mound with four additional mounds abutting it perpendicularly to the south. This roughly E-shaped configuration defines two primary plazas sharing the long east-west mound. These plazas are partially enclosed by additional detached mounds to the south. The detached mounds may define additional, but more informal plaza areas.”
             
Nelson’s excavation showed that, “the long east-west roomblock was actually continuous and common to both plazas. Nelson depicted 16 roomblocks, and the scale of Nelson's map suggests that there were between 280 to 300 rooms.  Several roomblocks were probably two stories tall.”
             
And, according to a 2003 University of New Mexico Archaeology paper, “A circular depression represents a probable kiva. The multistoried pueblo covers a 350 ft north-south by 450 ft east-west area. Several nearly enclosed plazas are represented, contrasting with the linear layout of Pueblo Alamo. Nelson (1915) excavated 44 rooms, including a room with walls decorated with red painted lines and thin zigzag motifs. The Santa Fe Archaeological Society (1959) dug three additional rooms. Outside of these poorly documented projects, no recent excavations have been conducted at this important Coalition period pueblo. The ceramic artifacts suggest an occupation between A.D. 1200 and 1400 (Dickson 1979:118). Chamisa Locita and Pueblo Alamo are contemporary Coalition period village complexes, but Pueblo Alamo was apparently abandoned before Chamisa Locita.”
             
Easy access to water was the major need for any form of permanent housing – then as well as during the 20th century development of the Rancho Viejo HOA communities.  The 2003 UNM Archaeology paper addresses that issue for Chamisa Locita.
The spring-fed floodplain areas of the main Arroyo Hondo canyon seem to offer the greatest agricultural potential. Additional springs are found at Pueblo Wells in Canyon Ancho, 1 km west of Pueblo Alamo and at the spring-supported Chamisa Locita (LA 4), another large Coalition period pueblo. A windmill currently taps the spring, and the water is used for grazing purposes at or near Arroyo Hondo Pueblo slope.”

            
Pueblo Wells was occupied from 1200 – 1400 CE,  (as mentioned above) a time in which many similarly sized “smaller” pueblos were established in this area by several different groups of people, from various tribes, speaking various languages, and trying to live together in mutual tolerance despite different ideologies, interests and native tongues.  The formation of, and movement to, the much larger eight Galisteo Basin Pueblos (Galisteo, San Cristobal, She, Colorado, Largo, Blanco, San Lazaro, and San Marcos) indicates the success of this attempt at coexistence – with the inhabitants of Chamisa Locita relocating to the San Marcos Pueblo near the current town of Cerrillos.
             
One reason for this ability to coexist might be the accretive nature of Pueblo Indian culture – “the process of growth or increase, typically by the gradual accumulation of additional layers or matter.”  Dr. Blinman said to think of the Pueblo Indian belief system as like an onion with the core beliefs in the center and additional layers added as they adopted new rituals and beliefs.  The innermost layer of the Tewa tribe, e.g., is the moieties – “each of two social or ritual groups into which a people is divided.” For others such as the Keresan it would be the Medicine and Clown Societies. The outer layer of all New Mexican Pueblo Indian “onions” is the Catholicism, which was forced upon them by the Spanish colonizers.  This ability to add on beliefs without sacrificing or even modifying existing ones allows today’s Puebloans to legitimately profess to be both Tewa and Catholic in religion.  And, perhaps in the past, to coexist more easily.
             
Chamisa Placita is located near the north-south border of Rancho Viejo and Eldorado, within walking distance of the Eldorado Community Center, where currently it is watched over by volunteers from the nearby Alteza Estates.




Sources:
Before Santa Fe: Archaeology of the City Different, Jason Shapiro, Museum of New Mexico Press; August 16, 2008
Windmills and Dreams: A History of the Eldorado Community and Neighboring Areas,
Eldorado Volunteers, Eldorado Community Association (1997)